Flow and friction on the beach due to breaking waves

Prof. Nimish Pujara, Civil and Environmental Engineering, UW‐Madison. As water waves approach a beach, they undergo dramatic transformations that have significant consequences for beach morphology. The most important transformations for the flow dynamics are that waves usually break before they reach the shoreline and that their height collapses when they do reach the shoreline. In this talk, we consider these processes and the subsequent flow that is driven up the beach.